When when it comes to modern icons of borough, you can divide the shift into BT and AT — Before and After Tarlow.
Writes author Raquel Pelzel:
“For those who have a hard time fathoming a Williamsburg without housemade mayo, in-house butchery and European tourists waiting in line for a two-top, it’s time for a history lesson. In ye olde days of the 1990s, the bulbs shined bright and “local cheese” meant plastic-wrapped squares from the bodega. Andrew Tarlow changed all that.”
It all started with Diner — read more here about the rollicking rest.